Care instructions
Home textiles last as long as the way they are washed lets them. This is the general rule per fibre; the line printed on each product’s specification table is the one that wins.
At a glance
| Material | Wash | Dry |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Machine wash cold, mild detergent | Tumble dry low |
| Microfiber | Machine wash cold, no fabric softener | Tumble dry low |
| Wool-blend pile | Spot clean, professional clean yearly | Air dry flat |
| Polypropylene pile | Vacuum weekly, sponge spills | Air dry flat |
| Wood, metal, glass | Dry cloth; damp cloth on the frame only | — |
Bedsheets, comforters and covers
- Wash before first use. It sets the weave and takes off the finishing.
- Cold water, mild detergent, and wash dark colours separately for the first two or three washes.
- No bleach and no fabric softener. Softener coats the fibre, which is what makes a sateen stop feeling like sateen.
- Tumble dry low or line dry in shade. Direct sun is what fades a dyed cotton.
- Warm iron on the reverse. Microfiber wants a cooler setting than cotton.
Rugs, carpets and mats
- Vacuum weekly without the beater bar. A rotating brush pulls a pile loose.
- Blot a spill, do not rub — rubbing works it into the backing.
- Rotate a rug every few months so it wears and fades evenly.
- Anti-skid backing is rubber: keep it off underfloor heating and out of a hot dryer.
- Hand-knotted pieces want a professional clean once a year, not a machine.
Clocks, frames and wall art
- Dust the face and the frame with a dry cloth. Glass cleaner belongs on the glass, not on wood or a brass finish.
- Take the battery out of a clock you are storing; a leaking cell ruins a movement.
- Hang from a fixing rated for the weight printed on the specification table, into a plug rather than plasterboard alone.